Split smack down the middle by the blue Danube into Buda on the western side and Pest on the eastern side, Budapest is a city of contrasts.
The capital of land-locked Hungary, there’s a cosmopolitan edge to the country’s most populous city which belies its turbulent political history (the city was partly destroyed during the final year of the Second World War and some 40 per cent of the city’s Jewish population was murdered during the same period), and there’s a rich architectural landscape which conceals a vibrant, contemporary creative centre – full to bursting with homegrown fashion brands and cutting edge eateries – within.
Here, GQ reveals the best places to stay, eat, drink and hang out in Mittel Europa’s hippest city. Our number one tip? Hot foot it to a ruin bar the moment you land.
Where to stay
The home of stealth luxury situated in the cultural centre of beautiful Budapest, this low-key outcrop of the Four Seasons group is housed within the Gresham Palace, an exquisitely restored art nouveau building which was originally completed in 1906. Positioned directly across from the Széchenyi Chain Bridge (and with it the looming baroque façade of Buda Castle) the bedrooms on the river-facing side of the hotel boast fantastic views across the city.
Providing easy access to all of Budapest’s most important tourist spots (St Stephen’s Basilica is right behind the Gresham Palace and the aforementioned castle, the fairytale fisherman’s bastion and the soaring gothic spires of the parliament building are all situated within spitting distance), there’s also plenty to do inside the hotel, with an excellently appointed spa on the top floor and a cluster of excellent restaurants offering contemporary takes on traditional Hungarian cuisine. Stay elsewhere at your mini-break’s peril.
Where to eat
A Budapest institution serving up contemporary Israeli food in the hip Jewish district of the city. Featuring an elegantly appointed courtyard eating space, lunch is great (be sure to book) but settling in for a romantic dinner is easily the best way to make the best of this Hungarian gem. Order a paprika-laced matbucha salad, a shawarma (seasoned with “secret” spices) a pint of local Borsodi beer and dig in for the evening.
Easily the best spot for a lazy Sunday brunch on the Buda side of the Danube, this kitsch little spot combines pre-war Berlin vibes with a certain Parisian chic and throws in a heavy measure of traditional Hungarian fare for good measure. Order the ultra-rich chicken paprikas (our favourite take on the dish in the entire city) and keep the local sparkling wine flowing – you won’t need to ask the super-friendly waiting staff twice.
A snazzy spot situated on the Danube with unparalleled views of Buda Castle, DNB serves up excellent takes on traditional Hungarian classics (are you sensing a theme?) and is great for a quiet dinner following one of the city’s many sunset river boat rides (well worth doing). We ordered the duck leg confit and didn’t look back.
Where to shop
Nanushka
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Homegrown Hungarian fashion brand Nanushka recently added a menswear line into its wistful, muted seasonal offering. Where better to discover the brand (one of my personal favourites) than in its Budapest flagship, which also comes complete with an elegantly appointed café (good for breaks between tourist stops).
What to do
Though Budapest’s Jewish ghetto only existed for some three months in the winter of 1944, some 40 per cent of the city’s 250,000 strong Jewish population was wiped out in this period. This museum, built around a beautiful renovated synagogue, serves as an important memorial to the period. Moving, startling and essential.
OK, so “tat” is perhaps a little strong. Budapest’s sprawling and beautiful central market hall plays host to stalls selling all manner of consumable Hungarian delicacies on the ground floor (if you’re in the market for paprika and Tokaji, this place is for you), while upstairs is where much of the stuff you might regret buying by the time you get to the airport is housed. It’s an amazing space however, and well worth a stroll.
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The best of these ramshackle ruin bars housed in Budapest’s most charming dilapidated buildings is Szimpla Kert. Crunchy, friendly, and the perfect place to kick off a boozy weekend, don’t expect to spend less than six hours and drain less than six pints of local beer here.
