A Design Lover’s Guide to Budapest, Hungary
With its straight-out-of-a-storybook scenery—innumerable palatial buildings, ornate old-world cafés, and the mighty Danube River rippling beneath an octet of bridges—Budapest is a picturesque metropolis. But Hungary’s complex political history manifests itself in design, too, with plenty of post-Communist architecture that is both stately and gritty. The city is at a cultural and creative crossroads, and there’s never been a better time to frequent Budapest’s global-inspired restaurant and bars, savor edgy art, and take in its well-preserved historic structures.
1/5Where to Stay
Brody House It’s tough to snag a room (there are only 11) at this neoclassical heritage building in the Palace Quarter, but lucky guests are treated to one-of-a-kind accommodations outfitted with contemporary artwork, daybeds, and freestanding bathtubs. Stellar eggs Benedict served in the sunny dining room is yet another boon. From $136/night; brodyhouse.com
Baltazár Tucked away in the majestic Castle Hill District, this 11-room hotel mixes exposed brick with bold graphics and clubby, vintage-looking furniture. As a bonus, the grill and wine bar downstairs showcases an exhaustive list of Hungarian wines. From $137/night; baltazarbudapest.com
Aria Hotel Budapest (shown) Music is the inspiration behind this hip 49-room hotel divided into classical, jazz, opera, and contemporary wings. Sleep beneath Murano glass chandeliers, tufted velvet headboards, and exposed brick ceilings, then wake up to a cappuccino in Satchmo’s Bar & Library. Just before the sun sets, hightail it up to the rooftop High Note SkyBar, dominated by staggering views of St. Stephen’s Basilica. From $250/night; ariahotelbudapest.com
2/5What to See
Rudas Baths There are certainly more famous thermal waters in Budapest—the luxe Gellért and Széchenyi, for instance—but Rudas is a marvel in its own right. Just over the Elizabeth Bridge, in Buda, it dates from the 16th century. The decidedly Turkish architecture, including a striking octagonal pool nestled beneath a dome, nods to the baths’ Ottoman roots. Döbrentei tér 9; rudasbaths.com
Museum of Applied Arts (shown) Built between 1893 and 1896, this Art Nouveau masterpiece is capped off with an incredible dome and a roof swathed in green-and-gold Zsolnay tiles. Inside, there are glass-roofed halls and bi-level arcades, heightening the visual allure of the museum’s historic European furniture collection. Üllői út 33-37; imm.hu
A38 At once a concert hall, cultural center, restaurant, and bar, Budapest’s most distinctive entertainment venue is housed in a rehabbed Ukrainian cargo ship on the Danube. Try pálinka, a boozy Hungarian fruit brandy, in the bow bar before one of the electronica, rock, or hip-hop performances. Petőfi bridge, Buda side; a38.hu
Daniel Domolky - deephoto.hu3/5Where to Shop
Bomo Art Though tiny, this shop is well stocked with handmade
journals fashioned from leather and watermarked paper. There are also myriad postcards, bookmarks, and recipe notebooks to pore over. All
with a beautiful retro feel, they feature images from bygone
inventions to old-fashioned confections. Régi Posta Utca 14;
bomoart.comSchatzi (shown) On a busy street known for its bustling bars, there
is mellow Schatzi, an airy whitewashed-brick boutique. Sip a coffee
while perusing vintage clothing for both ladies and gents. Chances
are your visit will coincide with a local art exhibition or DJ
session. Akácfa Street 51Rózsavölgyi Csokoládé The exquisite chocolates on display—including
smoked wood, tarragon, and chestnut honey bonbons—are handcrafted in Budapest by a husband-and-wife team. Artfully wrapped in craft paper, the bars, available in such flavors as hot paprika, make welcoming
souvenirs for folks back home. Királyi Pál u. 6; rozsavolgyi.com
4/5Where to Eat
Sáo When you’ve had your fill of traditional chicken paprikash and stuffed cabbage, escape to Sáo inside Gozsdu Udvar, a courtyard teeming with global restaurants and bars. This Asian eatery, with its communal table and colorful birdcages hanging overhead, offers stylish refuge. Holló Street 10
Laci! Konyha! In a leafy, residential part of Pest, locals gather for some of the city’s most imaginative cooking. The arty space, with exposed pipes, dangling light fixtures, and murals, is where to roost for the likes of green curry veal chops and smoked shrimp with toasted wheat foam. Hegedűs Gyula u. 56; lacikonyha.com
Costes Downtown (shown) Costes, one of the city’s posh Michelin-starred restaurants, just opened this sister spot. An equally reverent but more contemporary sibling complete with a living wall, it’s found inside the Prestige Hotel Budapest. After dinner, stroll to the nearby St. Stephen’s Basilica and the Parliament Building. Vigyázó Ferenc u. 5; costesdowntown.hu
Tranzit Art Café A former bus station is the setting for Tranzit Art Café, just off Buda’s charming, café-packed Bartók Béla Avenue. After a lunch of, say, cilantro corn soup or mozzarella-stuffed eggplant in the brightly hued dining room, linger on a hammock in the courtyard. Bukarest és Ulászló utca sarok; tranzitcafe.com
5/5Where to Drink
Kiosk Escape Váci Street’s hordes of retail-minded pedestrians with an Aperol spritz or Pisco sour at Kiosk, a massive space set inside an old Piarist building with soaring ceilings. The bar, set against a backdrop of peeling brick, is always buzzing, but if you can score one of the terrace perches, with intoxicating views of the Danube and Elizabeth Bridge, you’ll probably want to stick around for the goat cheese strudel. Március 15. Tér 4; kiosk-budapest.com
Anker’t Ruin pubs—imagine ordering pints in crumbling, cavernous factories decorated with ramshackle furniture—are a hallmark of Budapest’s pulsating nightlife. This lantern-strewn indoor-outdoor hangout is vast, so if the DJ-fueled dance floor becomes too loud, take that glass of Hungarian rosé and settle into one of the more intimate spaces. Paulay Ede Street 33
Fekete (shown) Budapest’s indie coffee scene is thriving, with meticulous baristas turning out phenomenal pour-overs and cortados. One must-hit java joint (a great spot to visit after touring the nearby Hungarian National Museum) is Fekete. When the weather is nice, skip the sleek white-and-wood interior for a seat in the spacious courtyard. Brick, arches, and greenery create a serene environment for espressos spun from Colombian beans. Múzeum krt. 5; feketekv.hu
